Saturday, September 03, 2005

Nomadic

The Darhad people of Mongolia every year will make the arduous three day trek to warmer, winter pastures. They pack their children in baskets that are in turn strapped to yaks. The elderly ride in drag carts behind stubborn oxen. Their food, water, shelter, clothes, cooking utensils, and every other worldly belonging is taken with them across the many miles through frigid mountain passes, forests, and across sub-zero, icy rivers. Not a spoon or cup is left behind. The land is seemingly undisturbed. They leave it the way they found it.

It is a desolate landscape... a desolate life... but it is their home. They know nothing else.

Their only company out on these barren plains are the stars, that sing to them at night, and the wolves, whom they hunt. They are a migratory herding people and masters of the horse. In addition to their belongings and their families, they will also transport packs of goat and sheep... their true wealth, their food. These obedient animals follow each other single file, ears perked and eyes forward. Should one stray the horsemen will quickly catch it and expertly steer it back to the flock.

The Darhad are the living descendants of Ghengis Khan; a proud people. They are also an extremely humble people - subservient to the gods of Earth and the ancestral spirits. They love each other as they love vodka and song... both of which warm their chilled bones.

Their lives have remained the same for thousands of years. Lives that consist of continuous change, continuous hardship and continuous movement. They can claim no place as home yet at the same time claim all of it as home, thousands upon thousands of sprawling, harsh miles. They know this land, have names for every rock, tree, river, and beast. When they kill their natural adversaries, the wolves, whom mercilessly hunt their livestock, they call upon their deceased brethren for strength, courage, and wit. Upon shooting a wolf they ask the fallen animal for forgiveness. Death, more so than life, is an accepted, almost welcome event. In a land where it is always winter, death is viewed as a rebirth. Life is cyclic and in a constant state of flux between the land of the living and the land of the dead where the ancestors dwell harmoniously with the spirits of the wolves. Where the stars kiss the earth and the skyline meets the distant horizon.

It is a difficult life... yet they are grateful. If one were to ask any one of these people what they were most grateful for they would quickly answer:

“ I am grateful for the work, and doing it well.”

20 comments:

Scribe Called Steff said...

Mongolia is steeped in amazing history. I dream of one day doing a bike trek across the country.

It's on a rather big to-do list I have.

Scribe Called Steff said...

(Riding the Iron Rooster by Paul Theroux has some interesting passages on Mongolia, too, which were nice to read.)

The Snakehead said...

These are the people who truly know and appreciate the meaning of life.

Adams Avenue said...

"There are some things which cannot be learned quickly, and time, which is all we have, must be paid heavily for their acquiring. They are the very simplest things and because it takes a man's life to know them the little new that each man gets from life is very costly in the only heritage he has to leave."
-- Ernest Miller Hemingway (1899-1961)

I also find it incredibly interesting how we all read this post and find this nomadic life appealing, wise, and respectful. We almost fantasize a little about that kind of life. And yet, there are so many other people that could read this post and find discomfort.

Great job, Herm.

-G.D. said...

I've always wanted to be able to pack all that I own in one backpack...And just go. Move from one sacred place to the next. Build altars out of rocks. Offer my ambition to the gods. Understand that survival is a gift, but also a gamble. A life without material ties...Wow, that would be wonderful.

LeeLoreya said...

perhaps it is appealing because it seems so simple (tonight i won't go home but take a bus/ship/plane and leave to do yet most people never have the time/courage to do it.except when they know that they have a couple weeks to live and start seriously thinking about that "to do list".

Hermes said...

Danny. If a bird is born in a cage, and this same bird never leaves the confines of his cell... does said bird know he is imprisoned?

Vaxation. Tru dat. Who needs women?

Steff. I would love to spend a month with the Darhad. Observing them. Listening, with rapt attention, in silence.

I could learn how to live.

Jay. I think if they studied us they would find our lives strange... almost magical... as we view theirs. But in a different way.

Snakehead. Agreed. Simplicity in complexity... as Danny mentioned.

Colonialave. Thanks. And thanks for sharing that quote. It's a good one. Although, I don't think I'd be tough enough to live the way they do.

G.D. Perhaps you were a gypsy in a previous life?

My possessions own me. I'm too in debt and tied down. I hate it.

LeeLoreya. Success should be measured in where you go, what you see, and the cultures you learn about and immerse yourself in... not how much money you have, what car you drive, and how you dress...

Rory. Herpes!?! Where? Who? Is it contagious?

Eric Heald-Webb said...

Hermes,
Good informative post. The Great Plains Native American Tribes lived like this until the middle of the 1800's. They followed the buffalo and respected the spirits of the dead.
Then we snuffed that life out and planted these nomadic people on 'reservations'. Reservations are for animals, not people.

Oh, and I agree with your sentiments about the administration and the delayed and laughable reaction to the flood.

LeeLoreya said...

well, it's no hemingway quote but "how many times have/you heard someone say/if I had his money/ I could do things my way/but little they know/ that it's so hard to find/one rich men in ten/ with a satisfied mind/.../money can't buy back/youth when you're old/or a friend when you're lonely/or a love that's grown cold/the wealthiest person/is a pauper at times/compared to the man/with a satisfied mind/" (Johnny Cash)

RuKsaK said...

Mongolia is a vast, untainted country which had only been buggered at the edges - to sharpen it.

Rae Ann said...

Very similar to the way many Native Americans lived before we destroyed their lifestyles and lands. I love the way the native peoples of the world are truly a part of the planet and not separate from it as we are.

LMB said...

So, you like the Discovery Channel, too? Even though they should change it to the American Chopper Channel. I HATE those assholes!

What? Oh...nomads. Little hands, smell like yaks. Yes. Invigorating people. What kind of shampoo do you use on the Mongolian Salt Flats? And can I pick up Wi-Fi? Is a Starbucks nearby?

Eric Heald-Webb said...

After the US annexes Mongolia, I'm sure there'll be a starbucks at least every 100 miles, along with plenty of oil wells.

LyZa said...

Hm... is it because they are different, does that mean they are strange for some people?


i'm just thinking here. ^-^

Unknown said...

i'm so with eric!

there'll be a starbucks on every bend of the road, so you won't have to get of your yak to grab a cup.

and we- us- cosmopolitan people are kind of like nomads, expt when we get up to move its because we've lit a fire under our ass and there is nothing else left to demolish--

:)

Mad Munkey said...

So they live still the lives that the plains indians did before we stole their land, raped their women and killed their young lest they grow and take revenge?

Eric Heald-Webb said...

pretty much, and remember, these are the people who brought granmama Rome to her knees.

and I'm thinking, given the stark population densities, starbucks will stay at least within drilling communities, meaning every 5 miles.

MrRyanO said...

This is reminiscent of the life of a traveling musician...minus the sex, drugs, and hot chicks of course...

Pretty good story, Hermes.

Hermes said...

Eric. Kind of like how the media keeps referring to the displaced New Orleans victims as "refugees."

One of the saddest, most tragic events, along with slavery, is how we stole this land away from the Native's and lumped them into reservations. You're absolutely right.

Puzzy. I'm sure following the winds would be a wondrous life.

LeeLoreya. Too true. too true. Not much I can add to that. The man in black is right

Ruksak. Buggered. A fitting word.

Rae-Ann. Yes, I hope the same fate doesn't befall the Darhad.

Desolation. I'm sick of all of the biker, hot-rod, and "mythbusting" on Discovery. Give me National Geographic any day of the fucking week. I'll take the Pepsi challenge.

Lyza. I never said they were strange... in fact, if anything, I speak of them with reverence.

Darian. As of late I've been trying to approach life more "Zen" as you say. Eliminate "want" and replace with calm contentment.

Ale. I'm also guilty. I can't live without my Caramel Mochiatto.

Madmunkey. Yes. Someone needs to get scalped very, very badly.

Tacit. They'll need to or they won't make it through this.

Rockdog. I've often thought about taking a summer job as a trucker. The road, my tunes, books, and my thoughts would be my only company.

Autumn Storm said...

Beautiful subject matter, beautifully said. "Where the stars kiss the earth and the skyline meets the distant horizon." - pretty & poetic.